- Intro, equipment and considerations
- File sizes, post processing
- Variable vs Fixed exposure
- ISO / Aperture
- White balance
- Interesting subjects
- Battery life
- Frame rate, software
- Final thoughts
- (Interval shooting for stills)
You can easily have hundreds of photos per time-lapse which adds up quickly if you shoot a lot of time-lapses at full size and quality.
If storage is an issue:
You may want to consider what final resolution you want and decide only to shoot images big enough for that resolution.
For example: if you don’t plan on anything bigger than 1080p, you might consider shooting at smaller image sizes (rather than full resolution). Each camera has different options for this so you will have to see what each setting gives you on your camera, but keep in mind that you are also getting possibly hundreds of files to process, too.
1080p video is 1080 x 1920. Small 16:9 photos on my Fuji cameras are larger than that at 1408 x 2496.
If future proofing is important to you:
Then plan on having big enough memory cards and backup drives to store all these files.
Also keep in mind to save lower resolution video for watching them now. Most computers, tablets and smartphones can’t show 4K video and larger yet.
RAW and post processing
The same goes for RAW. Hundreds of files x RAW are a lot of files to keep. I would skip the RAW and get into nailing it as much in-camera. Same goes for post processing. I don’t have all the time in the world, so I skip extensive post processing. Basically, I reduce the resolution, boost up some color, sharpen if the time-lapse is star motion and that’s it. (FYI I use DCE AutoEnhance which I purchased years ago.)